This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Muscat’s low-rise architecture, warren-like souks and sophisticated arts offerings combine to make it one of the most charming cities in the Gulf region. The Omani capital offers a laid-back slice of traditional Arabia with all the comfort and convenience of Dubai or Abu Dhabi, but with an artistic, traditionalist core that sets it apart from many of the Gulf’s other big cities.
7 am: Breakfast at The Chedi
Much of Muscat’s contemporary cultural life is played out in its luxury hotels, and The Chedi, overlooking a private beach in the Ghubrah neighbourhood, is one of the finest in the Middle East. Pop in for the opulent breakfast served in a palm-shaded courtyard overlooking the sea — try balaleet, a dish of omelette served with sweet, spiced vermicelli — and linger a while to stroll through the pavilion-dotted gardens.
Every morning except Fridays, non-Muslims have the opportunity to visit the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, one of the most beautiful buildings in the Gulf. It’s at once spectacular and understated, serving as the pinnacle of the contemporary Islamic architectural style followed by all new buildings in Muscat. Friendly and informative, free guides provide interesting insights such as the story of the prayer hall’s vast Persian carpet, hand-stitched in Iran and weighing 21 tonnes.
11 am: Explore Muttrah
Drive 15 minutes east to Muttrah, the old heart of Muscat. Make the short climb up to Muttrah Fort, built by the Portuguese in the 16th century, for magnificent views over the rugged coastline, then descend to the atmospheric maze of historic Muttrah Souk, shopping for gold, wedding chests and more. Muttrah was originally a fishing village and its seafaring spirit can still be found in the modern fish market at the western end of the corniche.
1 pm: Lunch in Ruwi
Just south of Muttrah is Ruwi, known as Little India. This is Muscat at its most mercantile — a busy district packed with souks and jewellery stores. Head to Oman Express, a hole-in-the-wall cafe off Souq Ruwi Street, to enjoy lunch as the Indian expat population does, with steaming glasses of masala chai and bottomless thalis — vegetarian platters of curry, dhal and chapati. Walk off your meal with a stroll through the pleasant park that sits at the base of the nearby Ruwi Clock Tower.
Returning to the coast, head east towards Old Muscat, the ceremonial seat of the Sultan of Oman. Here you’ll find a collection of stately government buildings, including the eye-catching Al Alam Palace. It’s not open to the public, but you can admire its pharaonic gold and blue columns from outside. Next door is the brilliant Oman National Museum, opened in 2016, telling the country’s history through exhibits of traditional clothing, model dhows and old currency. The Aflaj Gallery, showcasing Oman’s historic and World Heritage-listed water management systems, is particularly interesting.
Five minutes south by car from the Oman National Museum is Marina Bandar al Rowdha, a jumping-off point for boat trips around Muscat’s coastline. Early evening is the most picturesque time to join a sailing, as the sunset casts a golden glow over the Gulf of Oman — and choosing to travel on a traditional wooden dhow such as Star of the Sea is unbeatably atmospheric. Friendly pods of dolphins are known to playfully dip alongside the boats.
Back on dry land, finish your day’s adventures in Muscat with another short drive further south east to Jumeirah Muscat Bay, one of the city’s finest resorts. Named for the olive-green gemstone mined in Oman’s hills, Peridot restaurant showcases some of the country’s finest dishes — try the shuwa, slow-roasted meat cooked with tamarind pulp and dried lime, and you’ll agree Omani cuisine deserves greater international recognition. After dinner, make for the beach, where you can order a drink from a waiter as the moonlight illuminates the rock arches and islands of Muscat Bay.
A 25-minute drive back into central Muscat takes you to the Royal Opera House, which opened in 2011 during the reign of Sultan Qaboos, who was a passionate patron of the arts. Almost rivalling the Grand Mosque for neo-Islamic splendour, it’s well worth a look just to admire the architecture, but there’s a good chance you’ll be able to catch a show, with regular performances by local and international opera, circus, theatre and dance troupes.
Published in the December 2024 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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